August - 2006

Bunny Trims Down: Coolwhip's Excellent Weight-Loss Adventure

by Beverly Forehand

That’s one fat bunny,” the vet said as he examined Coolwhip, my niece Sarah’s nine-month old rabbit. I had to admit that although I didn’t know a lot about bunnies, I didn’t think they should have double chins. Coolwhip, oblivious to comments on her personal appearance, only sat and twitched her nose. Sarah, the person most responsible for the “fat bunny” since she fed CW strawberry yogurt chips by the handful, said nothing. After a few more pokes and prods, as well as a thorough examination of bunny ears, claws, and teeth, the vet announced that the bunny must lose weight.
I was dubious. I wasn’t sure I had ever seen Coolwhip travel for a further distance than her cushion to the food dishes and back again. Coolwhip had a clear dictate on life, “Rabbits sit and People bring them things.” It seemed to be working out for her so far. But, the bunny was very fat. And, apparently, obesity is a common affliction in rabbits. Or, to clarify, in domestic rabbits.
Unlike their sleek, wild cousins who romp and run for their lives, domestic rabbits tend toward corpulence. Of course, they also live 5 -10 years longer than their thinner feral counterpoints with a lifespan of 10 – 15 years. While wild rabbits snack on insects and flora, house rabbits tend to eat pellets, fruits and veggies, and, of course, rabbit treats. Rabbit treats, I knew, came in many varieties and filled up an entire half-aisle at Petsmart. There are four different flavors of yogurt chips available at my pet store—Coolwhip favors strawberry, but she’ll take blueberry or pineapple in a pinch. She also likes dried apples.
Coolwhip does not care for lettuce, toothbrushing, or having her claws clipped. She likes to chew things (including electrical cords if you don’t watch her) and she refuses to use her litter box about half the time. She likes to shred rugs with her super-sharp claws (when I don’t cut them on time) and above all other things, she does not like to run. She’ll hop slowly with a petulant look on her bunny-face if you vacuum near her. Although many rabbits are skittish and frightened by loud noises, Coolwhip doesn’t seem to mind noise, cats, or dogs. She does, however, dislike moving.
Coolwhip likes to sit on her cushion, in her bed, under the couch, and by the door to the patio where she can watch Sugar, my mother’s cat, paw at the screen. Sugar is allowed in the front yard, with supervision, twice a day. The bunny, I don’t believe, knows that grass is anything other than a big, green shag-carpet. True, once this bunny knew grass, but in her six months of posh living as Sarah’s beloved bunny-wunny I believe she’s forgotten that the world isn’t air-conditioned.
Coolwhip, originally named Miss Snowball, came from the county fair. She won “Cutest Baby-Bunny” and Sarah demanded that she take the tiny bundle of white fur home with her. Susan, my sister, quickly decided that the bunny, renamed Coolwhip, would be much happier at my mother’s house with Sugar the cat rather than at her house with her five very large (and not very rabbit-friendly) dogs. So, Coolwhip came to live at my mother’s house where she was pampered, cuddled, and fed treats. Coolwhip seemed content, but even rabbits need to worry about their calorie-intake. And, after the vet’s pronouncement, it appeared that Coolwhip’s days of yogurt chips and granola balls were at an end. It was time to put the bunny on a diet. Coolwhip, oblivious to the commentary directed at her, thumped her foot and scratched her ample hip. But, once we arrived back at my Mother’s house, CW began to realize something was amiss.
Usually, when Coolwhip has to undergo some ordeal (vets, nailclipping, toothbrushing,) she is given a treat. If Sarah is the treat-giver, Coolwhip is given many, many treats. But, once home from the vet, there were no treats for Coolwhip. Coolwhip did not like this. She kept checking her blue treat bowl as if its emptiness was puzzling. She pushed her pellets around with her nose. They did not smell like strawberries or yogurt. Coolwhip was not amused.
But, it would take a lot more than cutting back on treats (and her pellets) to help Coolwhip regain her bunny-fitness. She would need exercise as well. We tried encouraging her to hop and play with toys without success. Francie, my sister’s Lasu-Apsu tried chasing Coolwhip and trying to get her to play with Francie’s many toys, but Coolwhip simply sat and stared (to my mind furiously) at the small dog.
Coolwhip and Francie actually have a very good relationship and will sleep in the same basket, but CW’s interactions with Francie consist of Francie sitting (or sleeping) by Coolwhip. Coolwhip does not frolic. She does not like antics. She certainly does not like small white dogs dropping belled cat-toys by her nose and barking excitedly. I definitely gave Francie an “A” for effort, but Francie was not going to teach this rabbit any new tricks.
So, as a last resort, we started walking the rabbit. Coolwhip fit perfectly into a cat-harness and with a little leash, you could walk her outside—at least in theory. For the first few hours, Coolwhip simply sat and ate grass or sniffed. Eventually, she decided that things on the other side of the yard were probably also good to sniff and began to hop just a bit. Sugar, who had probably never seen a leashed rabbit, watched in dread fascination from the lemon balm patch. After a few weeks, Coolwhip was hopping on her leash pleasantly and combined with a reduction in her food, she began to look a bit slimmer. It has been a month and a half since Coolwhip’s “diet” began and she has only one chin now, which is a very good look for her.
Sugar, on the other hand, has never ceased to be fascinated by the rabbit on a string. The cows also like to hang their heads over the yard fence and watch the amazing white bunny. Coolwhip doesn’t seem to mind the attention. Perhaps her earlier beginnings at the county fair and her illustrious first place as Cutest Bunny have made her immune to all this backyard publicity. But, most importantly, Coolwhip is in for a healthier future.
Sadly, obesity is one of the most common problems in American pets. It is easy to give in to that pleading look and hand your dog a bone or your cat a can of tuna, but probably the better course is a little tough love. Instead of a treat, take your dog for a walk, toss a frisbee, or give them a good, thorough brushing. Crack out the interactive treats for your cat or take your bunny for a long stroll. The exercise will do your pet good—and you too! But, most of all, it will ensure a healthier and happier future for your furry friend.

pictured below: Two Blue Eye Chico relaxes on a cool morning outside his stall. photo by Gina Smith, Pepperell, MA

Helping Horses Handle Summer’s Heat & Humidity
by Shannon Kalahan

Trail riding for hours, lessons in the fresh summer air, tackling a cross country course... the dog days of summer have arrived! All year round, we horse enthusiasts anticipate the time when we can step out of that indoor ring, or get back in the saddle after a long spring of knee-deep mud, and enjoy some sunshine with our equine friends. Whether relaxing or working, horseback riding is a preferred way to pass time for most horse lovers during the summer. However, all horse owners should remember, with the summer sun comes heat and humidity, a combination that can be dangerous to both humans and equines alike.
Heat stress, just as it sounds, is brought on by a buildup of excessive heat in the horse’s body. When the outdoor temperature reaches into the 90s and above, horses have a very difficult time losing extra body heat. If the local climate also has high humidity, horses will be at risk even before the temperature reaches 90 degrees. If heat stress goes untreated in such weather conditions, it can easily progress to heat stroke.
An equine’s ability to deal with heat and humidity depend on the horse’s physical fitness and how acclimatized the animal is to the weather. If your equine friend is in poor shape, or is not accustomed to the local weather, he will have a difficult time with thermoregulation.
In a horse, loss or gain of body heat occurs in four main ways – conduction, convection, radiation and evaporation. Conduction is the process by which heat is transferred between two surfaces in direct contact with one another. In the case of the equine, conduction occurs as the horse’s blood moves to the skin. The skin will then lose its heat to that which it is in direct contact with – the air. Body parts with the highest surface area, such as limbs or head, allow for maximum heat transfer via conduction.
Convection deals with the density of gas molecules surrounding the horse. As these gases of varying density move around the horse, they either transfer heat to or away from the animal. Air circulation, such as a breeze or fan, will help transfer “heat trapping molecules” away from your horse.
The concept of radiation deals with the amount of solar radiation (sunlight) the animal is absorbing. The more solar radiation he absorbs, the hotter he will be – in this case, shade will help minimize the amount of sunlight your horse absorbs. If your equine friend absorbs significant amounts of solar radiation, greater than its own metabolic heat production, then he can become overheated.
Finally, heat loss can occur through evaporation, which is usually accomplished through sweating or panting. It is considered to be the most important heat loss mechanism during and immediately following exercise. As sweat evaporates from the body, it pulls heat with it into the air, and away from the horse’s body. However, this method can become ineffective in humid weather, when the air is already saturated with moisture. In cases such as this, experts recommend hosing or sponging the large muscle groups on your horse’s body with cool water after every workout.
The signs of heat stress are fairly obvious, and can include profuse sweating, and rapid breathing and rapid heart rates. Horse owners should know the “normal” vital signs for their horse. Typically, a horse’s heart rate is between 28-44 beats per minute, and respiration ranges between 8-20 breaths per minute. Usually, equine temperatures vary between 99-100.8 degrees Fahrenheit. If the horse’s temperature is around or above 104 degrees for any length of time, the animal’s life could be in danger.
Another sign of heat stress may be dehydration, as a horse can sometimes lose water through perspiration faster than the water is being replaced. The “pinch” test can help you quickly determine if you equine friend is dehydrated. The “pinch” test involves squeezing a small section of skin on your horse’s neck or shoulder. When you release the skin, you should see the skin snap swiftly back into place. If there is a delay, and the skin does not snap back into place, you should be concerned about dehydration. Other signs of dehydration may include sunken eyes, a dull expression, slow capillary refill time and cessation of urination.
Some horses are considered to be “anhydrotic”, which means they have little or no ability to produce sweat. This becomes a problem for both the horse who needs to cool his body temperature, and the horse owner who will be looking for signs of heat stress. There will not be excessive sweat to warn the owner, and the horse will lose much of its ability to evaporate heat. Anhydrotic animals are prime candidates for heat stress and heat stroke – if you are concerned that your horse may suffer from this condition, you should contact your veterinarian with your concerns.
If you suspect that your horse is suffering from heat stress, you should quickly move to lower his temperature before the condition progresses to heat stroke. A horse that is overheated should be moved to a shady area, to prevent heat gain through solar radiation, with fans or wind to aid in convection. Cool water can be sprayed on the animal’s legs and body to help with both evaporation and conduction of heat to the water that runs off of the horse’s body. In extreme cases, veterinarians may even recommend measures such as ice packs on the legs or over other large vein surfaces on the horse, cold water enemas, etc. Determining the need for such drastic actions, however, is best left to your horse’s veterinarian.
Overall, the best treatment for heat stress is prevention. Horse should be allowed access to water both before exercise, and in limited but frequent quantities during and after workout sessions. A dehydrated horse may have limited ability to sweat, and therefore will have impaired its most important heat loss mechanism.
Furthermore, horse owners can reduce the incidences of heat stress by scheduling activities, such as exercise or transport, for cooler parts of the day. If you must exercise, monitor your horse’s vital signs closely, and be certain not to neglect cool-down procedures. Allow your horse to walk after exercise, as this creates air flow around the horse’s body, which is a major component to the evaporative process.
The summer can be a great time for working with your horse, but all horse owners should remember to watch their animals carefully for signs of heat stress. If your animal does show signs of heat stress, it is best to cool down your horse quickly to prevent the onset of heat stroke. If heat stroke is suspected, your veterinarian should be called immediately. However, with a little knowledge, planning and prevention, you will limit your horse’s incidences of heat stress, and together you two can enjoy summer activities safely.

July - 2006

Ethan White discusses important issues with his best friend Maddie, a Golden Retriever.  photo by Andy White

Warm Weather and Your Pets

As the weather warms and outside activities increase, it is imperative that pet owners take special efforts to protect their pets. The following are important tips:
Soaring temperatures are no more comfortable for dogs and cats than they are for people. Heat prostration is a common cause of summer illness that can, and does, kill many beloved pets each year. If your pet spends a substantial part of its day outside, be sure that you provide a cool, shady spot for it to escape the hot summer sun and plenty of cool, clean water.
A sheltered area must also be available so that the pet can escape summer storms. Be sure that areas in which pets are housed are secure and that pets cannot run into busy streets, fall into the deep window wells, or become trapped within or under lawn equipment.
Some of the worst summer tragedies involve pets that are left in vehicles in the sun with the windows partially or completely rolled up. Temperatures inside a car rapidly climb to more than 100 degrees F and can cause death sometimes in a little as 10 minutes! If you think you would have to leave your et in a car for any period of time, please do the pet and yourself a favor and leave the pet at home.
When traveling with your pet, call ahead to make sure the pet will be welcome at any hotel or homes where you intend to stay. Travel from state to state usually requires a health certificate for each pet, which has been signed by a veterinarian. Travel outside the country often requires that the pet be quarantined for a specified period of time, so be sure to check restrictions in the country to which you will be traveling. Remember that sometimes the best solution for everyone is to make arrangements for someone to watch the pet in your home, or to take the pet to a boarding facility designed to provide it with the special care it needs.
Many of the lawn care and pesticide products are potentially toxic to pets. Be sure to store these items where pets have no access to them. After treating lawns and outside areas, restrict pets from these areas until exposure danger has passed. Remember that many types of summer foliage (among them hydrangea, wisteria, delphinium, foxglove, privet hedge and monkshood) can be toxic to pets as well, so do your best to prevent your pets from "dining out."
Heartworms (Dirofilaria immitis) are parasites transmitted by mosquitoes that can potentially be fatal to your dog or cat. Many people are familiar with heartworm disease in dogs, but are unaware that cats may also contract the parasite (heartworm disease has been reported in cats in 38 states). Cats are more often than not completely asymptomatic until the day they drop dead from sudden pulmonary complications. Have your dog or cat tested for the presence of heartworms by your veterinarian and ask about heartworm preventatives. Treatment for this disease can be expensive and risky for your pet; prevention is easy and inexpensive. The fact that your dog goes outside to urinate and defecate, and the fact that your cat does not go outside at all, does not eliminate the risk of the disease. Mosquitoes are everywhere.
Adult fleas generally do not reside on the pet except to feed. Eggs may be laid on the pet, but usually fall off the pet into the environment where conditions are right for them to develop into adult fleas. As a result, it is possible to have a substantial flea problem although you have only identified a few or no fleas on your pet. Egg and larval stages can survive in your home all year and in your yard from spring through late fall (all year in warmer climates). Biting and scratching on the lower back, tail and abdomen are the most common signs of flea infestation and dermatitis will often flare up in these areas. Some over the counter flea and tick preparations are not only ineffective, but may be dangerous to certain pets. Products containing DEET should never be used on cats and dogs. Your veterinarian can recommend the most appropriate flea prevention/treatment program for your pet.

Information provided by Gary Wingate, Rph, FIACPT and Wingate Pharmacy Inc., 129 Main Street, Nashua, NH 03060, 603-882-9733 www.wingatespharmacy.com
 

How to Get Lost Just About Anywhere
by Garth Rumsmoke

So you want to go out in the woods today? Beware, it may be the Teddy Bears’ Picnic.
Those words (from a song) used to fill my mind with thoughts of going into the woods and getting lost. To tell the truth, you can get lost in town, too. Lots of places to get lost, or even lose things, mostly lately with me it’s my mind. Not hard to do, lose something or even someone in a crowd. Police are always losing someone on TV. "Gee, Chief I was following him and he gave me de slip." See how easy that was, then its easy to put something down, and 5 seconds later realize you lost it already. I do that every time I start a project. You have, too, so go ahead and laugh. But let me tell you how easy it is to get lost at the beach. True story and proof positive that getting lost is easy.
My wife and I are horse folks, trail riders, which means we ride in the woods. We travel across the USA most of the year, riding and gathering information to share with other trail riders through our articles in magazines. Forty-six states and more places than you can shake a stick at. Been almost 14 years doing it. Rode in to places we had never been before, armed with only a lack of good sense (pre GPS days) and a trust in the good Lord. Rode for hours in strange lands, following trails we really had no idea where they were going or even what they were like. We love it. Folks always ask, "You ever get lost?" Nope says we, well except once on a beach in Oregon. With our camper about 200 yards from the beach, surrounded on two sides by water.
Bet you would like to know how we did it, ok. Nehalem Beach, Oregon. Runs north and south along the northern end of the state. One side is boarded by some great big ocean, the Pacific if I remember right. The other by the Nehalem river, which runs west from the mountains, almost to the ocean, and then makes a sharp southern turn and follows the coast about 2-3 miles about a quarter of a mile inland. So you have this long stretch of beach, with some high growing grass, and one long sand dune that separates the grassy area from the beach. At the turning point at the river, the state has put in a huge (about 600 sites) camping area, RV's, and also a horse camping area. So you have a horse camp just below the turn, setting south of the RV area. This makes the horse camp surrounded by water on three sides and one very large camp site on the north. OK the river turns back to the ocean on the southern end of this area. That makes the three sides by water.
Kathy and I had been in Oregon for about three weeks and have been waiting for just the right sunset to take some videos of us riding on the beach with the sunset for a background. Our first night at this camp, in fact, we got there just as the sun was setting low on the ocean. This one night everything was perfect, with no clouds and a promise of a beautiful sunset. We saddled up and rode from our campsite, along a straight path towards the beach. Going through this area of grass growing in huge clumps, higher than our heads. All one had to do was go towards the sun for about 150- 200 yards and you were over the dune and on the beach. Which is just what we did. Arriving on the beach we found other folks had the same idea, to see the sun set. So we rode south on the beach for a short distance to be alone. The camera was set up, the sun set went down and with it some great videos. Not wanting to lose the moment we decided on a night ride down the beach to where the river again met the ocean. I asked Kathy if she had noticed anything that we could use as a marker to find our turn-off, back to camp from the beach, when we returned. Her reply was that there was a huge log at the camp turn-off.
So off we go, merrily on our way. Upon returning we start looking for the log. Funny, there’s no log. Well that’s OK, just ride to the top of the dunes and see the camp lights. Folks, I am here to tell you there were no camp lights in sight. The only lights were miles up the beach belonging to the town of Nehalem. Well, the camp had to be between us and those lights. So we rode towards town, found a log, and turned towards camp. Oops! Wrong log. In fact, every log we saw was the wrong log, and a ride to the dune top still showed no lights. Must be a black out at camp. Up the beach a good distance we see a flashlight moving around.. Ah, ha, we go charging up the beach, scared three young girls about to death, coming out of the night on charging horses. Where is camp? we ask. "Duh" was the reply, "Right over the dune." Smartest kids in the area. No wonder there is a generation gap.
Up the dune we go. Whoa, no lights. Now with about 600 campers there somewhere we should be seeing lights. In fact I could see the river on the other side of the narrow strip of land where camp was suppose to be. Moon shining on the water. No camp. Dumb kids anyway. So up the beach to one more flashlight and one more "Right over the dune." OK, one more time, to the top we rode, and no lights. Here we set, atop our horses and cannot see one light. Just about the time we wanted to scream, right in front of my horse appears a woman carrying a small child and one more on the ground hanging on to her hand. I got the funniest look from her when I ask her where camp was. Right there she said. To top it off she was on a black top path to the RV park. They don't make things that easy for horse folks. I had to admit to her, we could not see any light and she said she could not either but, just follow the path back and there is camp. She offered to light the way with her flash light and we gladly followed her for about 100 yards.
We came up to a canopy of flat topped pine trees the completed blocked any light, riding under the trees into a almost make believe world of lights from the campers, along with many camp fires. The complete campground was covered with these trees, like huge umbrellas. What a shock. But not feeling so bad once we knew why we could not see any lights to show us the way home. The next morning we were telling one of the other horse campers about our night ride, he said, there is a marker right on the dune top to show you the trail through the grass back to camp. Later, once more on horseback, we found the marker – a sock tied onto a stick about one foot long, stuck into the ground. We could not have found that if we wanted to. Now for those of you are second guessing us and saying. "Why not just follow the other horse track?" Deep, dry beach sand does not leave tracks. No trail, just sand, and darkness.
So my advice to all who may venture out into the great somewhere, take a GPS and turn it on. I had mine with me that night. HO, HO! Who would think that you would need a GPS to find our way off a beach?! Till next issue its me, "The Coast to Coast Rambler."
 

  A young black bear sits peacefully at the base of a tree in the Conway, NH area.  photo provided by Krista Fuller

Living With Bears
In light of the recent urban black bear incidents in both New Jersey and New Mexico, The Humane Society of the United States would like to remind citizens of the best means of coexisting with these animals. Although bears will usually choose to avoid human habitation, in times of scarce food or water, adverse weather conditions, or increased human development, bears may be forced into contact with people.
"Bears, like most animals, are attracted by potential sources of food, including anything that smells edible like an unattended bottle of suntan lotion or scented candle," said Lauren Nolfo-Clements, Ph.D., wildlife scientist for The HSUS. "It is essential that people who live in or anywhere near bear habitat secure any and all potential bear attractants."
The HSUS suggests the following steps to minimize bear activity. Keep trash indoors until pickup day. When you do set trash out, only do so in secured or refuse containers, and keep all trash cans cleaned and deodorized. Try to avoid composting food scraps. The majority of black bear diets consist of plant not animal matter so even vegetable scraps can attract bears. Bird feeders should only be put out during colder months (November - March) and should be taken down at night, and pet food and bowls should never be left outside. Fruit trees should be harvested as soon as the fruit is ripe, and gardens should be fenced to keep out not just bears but other wildlife such as deer. As with fruit trees, vegetables should be harvested upon ripening. Barbeques should be cleaned after each use and stored away from the house in an area free of underbrush. Beehives should be located away from the house.
"In the event that a bear is sighted in your neighborhood, do not panic. Bears generally wish to mind their own business and will seldom be interested in people," said Nolfo-Clements. "If you avoid the bear, chances are it will wander off without even acknowledging your presence."
If you happen to find yourself face to face with a black bear, The HSUS suggests some things you can do:
• Do not run or play dead.
• Do not approach the bear but stand your ground.
• Hold out your arms to appear larger.
• Make lots of noise.
• Throw things at the bear to drive it away.
According to The HSUS, the best way to deal with black bear and carnivore conflicts in general is through aversive conditioning. Bears that are spotted in urban or suburban areas should be driven off by wildlife professionals using such tactics as rubber bullets, pyrotechnics, repellents, body postures and vocalizations. In some areas, specially trained Karelian bear dogs can be employed to re-instill the natural wariness of humans that some bears may have lost.
"Hunting or euthanizing wildlife does not alleviate conflict with humans," said Nolfo-Clements. "A dead animal has no way of remembering or conveying its negative experience with humans to other bears. The best way to reduce human - bear conflict is through the education of both bears and humans on how to avoid potential conflicts."
For more information on dealing with wildlife conflicts, please visit www.wildneighbors.org. Provided by The Humane Society of the United States; www.hsus.org.

June - 2006

   Could Avian Flu Affect Our Felines?

Cornell Feline Health Center received reports from Germany of a cat found dead due to a highly pathogenic avian influenza virus infection. This has fueled concerns about the risk this emerging virus poses to cats and, subsequently, to the people who care for them. Can cats catch the bird flu? These reports, along with recent studies, say “yes.” But might it also be possible for cats to get the flu from us- or for humans to get the flu from cats? The short answer is “no.” None of the known strains of influenza virus are transmissible between cats and people. But these viruses are very changeable by nature, so the long answer is a bit more complex.
Of the three types of influenza viruses- A, B, and C-type A viruses have the most significant implications for human and animal health. There are many subtypes and countless strains of influenza A viruses, but all of them can infect birds (wild waterfowl and migrating birds are the natural hosts), so they’re commonly called avian influenza viruses. These viruses vary tremendously in their ability to cause disease; some subtypes and strains even jump species and infect other animals, including humans.
Although infected wild birds don’t usually get sick themselves, they can spread these viruses to domestic fowl, with devastating consequences. One highly pathogenic avian influenza virus (the H5N1 subtype) has been spreading from Asia to Europe and Africa, most likely through wild bird migrations. This virus has resulted in the deaths of approximately 200 million domestic commercial birds to date, due to either direct infection, or the culling of flocks done to keep infection from spreading. Some humans have become infected with H5N1, and a high percentage of them have died as a result. It’s believed that most, if not all, of these people became infected by direct contact with infected birds. According to the World Health Organization, “All available evidence indicates that the virus does not spread easily from poultry to humansÖAlmost all cases have been linked to close contact with diseased household flocks.”
Health officials in the U.S. carefully monitor avian influenza outbreaks in domestic fowl flocks, partly due to concerns that viruses that don’t often cause disease in birds-so-called low-pathogenic viruses-might evolve into highly pathogenic, rapidly spreading forms that would necessitate the destruction of entire flocks. Such losses, along with resultant trade restrictions, would have a tremendous economic impact on the poultry industry. But monitoring is also important because of the possibility that a particular avian influenza virus could directly infect people-or evolve into an even more dangerous virus by genetically mixing with ordinary human influenza viruses.
Several studies have investigated cats. The first, “Avian Influenza H5N1 in Tigers and Leopards” (Emerging Infectious Diseases, Vol. 10, No. 2), reported on exotic cats becoming infected by eating H5N1-infected chickens obtained from a local slaughterhouse. A second report, “Avian H5N1 Influenza in Cats” (Science, Vol. 306, Issue 5694), showed that domestic cats, too, can be infected if fed uncooked meat from H5N1-infected chickens. Perhaps even more disturbing, this latter study showed that infected domestic cats were capable of spreading infection directly to other cats. A third report, “Influenza A Virus (H5N1) Infection in Cats Causes Systemic Disease with Potential Novel Routes of Virus Spread within and between Hosts” (American Journal of Pathology, Vol. 168, No. 1), published in January 2006, more fully described the disease in cats. It further confirmed that domestic cats can be infected by eating infected birds, and that infected cats can spread infection to other cats, most likely through feces, urine, and secretions from the respiratory tract. As noted before, there is currently no evidence that influenza-infected cats can in turn infect humans.
The German cat mentioned earlier is believed to have eaten one of the H5N1-infected wild birds recently found in the same part of the country. At the time of this writing, the H5N1 virus is not present in North America. If H5N1or an equally harmful influenza virus were to appear, the safeguards established by governmental agencies should help prevent the kinds of outbreaks that have occurred in other parts of the world. For these reasons, the risk to cats in this country is considered very low.
Two additional safeguards can reduce the already-low risk of feline infection. First, don’t feed uncooked poultry to cats. Since the H5N1 virus is destroyed at 70∫ C, the high temperatures required to manufacture commercial cat foods eliminates the risk of infection in cats exclusively fed these foods. Second, keep cats indoors to prevent them from eating infected birds; because cat-to-cat infection is possible, this measure has the added advantage of preventing exposure to potentially infected outdoor cats. For continuously updated information on avian influenza, see the CDC Web site on influenza (www.cdc.gov) or the USDA Web site on influenza (www.usda.gov).
(Information provided by Dr. James Richards, Director of the Cornell Feline Health Center at www.vet.corell.edu/fhc or (607) 253-3414. To learn more about cat behavior and the signs of sickness in cats, visit The Great Cat Watch, For Wellness Sake! web site at www.catwellness.org.)

Get Annual Veterinary Exams for Your Rabbit

The House Rabbit Network would like to remind all rabbit owners that it is important to take your bunny for his or her yearly veterinary check up. Although vaccines are not routinely necessary for rabbits, exams are needed for preventative care. Rabbits are extremely skilled at masking illness and a serious problem might go unnoticed by an untrained eye. Of course, bunny owners should learn to be acutely† aware of their rabbit’s behavior and health. With the combination of close observation by you and regular annual exams by a rabbit-savvy veterinarian, your bunny should live a healthy, long life!
During your bunny’s yearly physical exam, your veterinarian will check for signs of dental disease, parasites and diseases of the eyes, ears and nose. The vet will also listen to your rabbit’s heart, respiration and gastrointestinal sounds. A discussion of your rabbit’s diet, age, environment and exercise routine will help the veterinarian assess the health of your pet. When your bunny is given a clean bill of health, you can feel confident that you have prevented potential illness!
If your rabbit is ever showing signs of ailing health, please take him or her to an exotics vet immediately. Sick bunnies can be in more danger than their owners are aware and need timely medical attention.
There are many informative articles about rabbit health available on the House Rabbit Network website, located at www.rabbitnetwork.org. Reading these articles may help you prevent your rabbit from getting sick.
The House Rabbit Network is a Massachusetts-based 501 ©3 non-profit, all-volunteer organization dedicated to saving and adopting unwanted bunnies and educating the public about rabbit care. They have dozens of wonderful bunnies available for adoption, and also many volunteer opportunities. Donations of any amount are accepted to fund our efforts to find loving, forever homes for each and every bunny.

Past Issues

A story of Broken Hearts:  Cats and Cardial Hemangoisacrcomas
by Beverly Forehand

I can remember the day that I brought Lothario, my only male cat, home from the animal shelter. He was so small he could fit in the palm of my hand and had been weaned weeks too early. I didn’t come to the shelter to adopt a kitten. My other cats, Pepper and Licorice, were well into their teens and had no desire to baby-sit. But Lo instantly captured my heart with his perfect pink paws and over-long whiskers. His ears and tail were so huge compared to the rest of his kitten frame. almost as if they anticipated the eighteen pound cat that he would one day become. I picked him up and cradled him against my heart the entire ride home and after a while I could feel him stop shivering and start to purr.

For the next eleven years, Lo was my cat. The one cat that followed me around the house when our little Queens had had their fill of me. Every night, Lo slept on the end of my bed twined around my feet--his distinct pigeon-sounding purr lulling me into dreams. Everything seemed fine. He had his check-ups every year, including a full CBC after he turned eight. His blood work was great, but the veterinarian always complained Lo could lose a few pounds. In late December, Lo started to limp a bit on his back right leg. His appetite was great, despite the fact that he was being fed the hated Science Diet weight management pellets. The vet checked him out and diagnosed the beginning of arthritis, or possibly a slight ACL tear. Lo was prescribed Cosequin and rest.

After a few weeks, Lo seemed no better. He had difficulty getting on to the bed and had to climb onto my curio chest to reach his coveted place among the pillows. But, other than his limp, Lo was his normal self. Still, something wasn’t quite right. Some small indefinable thing bothered me and pressed at my heart. After another week, I took Lo back to the vet. This time he ran complete blood work. There was no problem. Lo’s blood was perfect. The vet recommended that we wait a few weeks to let the Cosequin and rest do their job.

I moved Lo to my room and began monitoring his every move. There were no changes in his appetite, his play, or his bathroom schedule. Every night he climbed up to the top of the bed and said before he returned to my feet for the night. But, I could feel something was wrong. He never left my side, and he seemed even more loving. But, during the third week in January, Lo started to dislike his food.

I switched him to his favorite food, which was banned by the vet for the high fat content. I fed him tuna and cream and kitten food. These treats Lo accepted, but he ate less of them. The next trip to the vet confirmed that he had only lost a few ounces, but Lo looked thinner now. The vet determined he did have an ACL tear, and he prescribed pain medication for the tear. But he did seem happy and each night he played with his favorite string of pearls, even though he was not eating much.

The morning of January 26th I took Lo to the vet once again. He had eaten almost nothing the day before, although that morning, before we left for the vet, Lo ate half a can of tuna and shrimp. We drove to the veterinary clinic, but this time the vet asked to do x-rays. We could find nothing wrong with Lo, but there was obviously something we were missing.

Lo wrapped both paws around my arm as I sat listening to the vet describing the x-ray procedure that would take half and hour, but the test results were not good. Lo did have an ACL tear on his back right leg, no doubt from jumping off the bed and landing badly. Lo had never been the most graceful cat. But, when the vet studied Lo’s full body x-rays he saw a small, perfectly round lump right under Lo’s heart. The vet pointed out the circle, no bigger than my thumb, attached to the underside of the heart. It was what was making Lo tired and it was the reason for his lack of appetite. We began discussing aspiration to positively identify the mass as malignant, but the vet told me that he was almost 100% sure due to the symmetrical shape of the tumor. We discussed surgeons, specialists and options and all the while Lo lay in my arms and purred.

Lo’s tumor was a hemangiosarcoma a type of cancer more common in cats than in dog and usually occurring in older to middle aged animals. It is a cancer that doesn’t seem particular to any breed and can start in any blood vessel. Because hemangiosarcomas are vascular, they can occur on the internal organs or on the skin. The types that appear on the skin are usually quite visible and have a good chance of removal and remission. But, the internal hemangiosarcomas often have no symptoms until the very end.

We had been talking about half an hour when Lo started to breathe raggedly. The vet immediately began working to restore his breathing, but it only became worse. I could do noting but stand by and watch my cat struggle for his life. I knew he was dying. I asked the vet if I could take Lo outside to die. The vet followed me out to the grass behind our country clinic and Lo died in my arms, his head resting against my heart.

A cardiac hemangiosarcoma, such as the one Lo had, can cause collapse and hind limb paralysis. Lo had neither of these symptoms. Because hemangiosarcomas start in the blood vessels, the tumors themselves are often filled with blood. When the tumors rupture, death is almost instant. And, often the signs of the disease are only evident when the tumor begins to rupture. These ruptures can occur without warning and can cause (but don’t always cause) symptoms such as weakness, collapse, difficulty breathing, and fluid build-up in the abdomen.

I can’t overstate how hard this illness is to diagnose. Lo began visiting the vet for his leg injury in late December and died in late January. He was only ill for the last two weeks of that time period, and his sickness consisted only of a lack of appetite. He played, he purred, and followed me around the house. Although the symptoms for this type of cancer (as well as other cancers) include anemia, weakness, collapse, pale or white gums, difficulty breathing, fatigue, fluid build-up, masses beneath the skin (in the case of subcutaneous hemangiosarcomas), and pain in the bones, Lo only had difficulty breathing once the tumor ruptured. He was not anemic or weak, and his gums had no discoloration.

Only the x-ray revealed the tumor and, by then, it was too late. Had we not decided to do x-rays that day, Lo would have most likely died that night and I would’ve never known the reason for his death. These types of cancers can sometimes be detected by CBC (complete blood count) tests, but Lo’s was not. Serum chemistry and urinalysis tests for Lo were also indeterminate; only x-rays showed the problem. Had Lo lived, we would’ve next aspirated the tumor (if possible) and ordered an ultrasound of the heart, as well as an EKG. Hemangiosarcomas can be treated with chemotherapy and with surgery.

Cancer is a growing problem in pets, developing in canine and feline populations at about the same rate as they do in the human population. Often these tumors are undiagnosed. Never underestimate your feeling that something is just not right; it could save you pet’s life. Our pets cannot tell us what is wrong with them. We have to be vigilant for them.

Although Lo’s life was long by some standards, almost eleven years was much too short for me. He was very happy and he made my life more wonderful and complete. Now, my three cats, my dog Lady, and I mourn him. I suppose the only cure for grief is time, but even that is an incomplete cure. I buried Lo in the hills behind my parents’s house, where a childhood’s worth of cats, dogs, and hamsters lay in the earth. From the time that I adopted Lo until the day he died, I carried him in my heart and I suppose I always will. Our pets are our friends.and they are our family. Loving our pets means taking them to the vet for regular check-ups and always trusting our feelings for their safety, as our pets trust us.

(Beverly Forehand is a regular contributing writer for The Critter Exchange. She can be reached at Beverlyforehand@hotmail.com.)

by Lori Indelicato

Having a pet bird can be a great experience, but trying to decide what to feed your feathered friend can be a real hassle. Between seeds, pellets and supplements, it’s easy to get confused but really all it takes is a few tricks to keep you and your bird in high spirits.

The most common way to describe a bird’s eating habits is that they eat like children- they love to eat the wrong foods, like those that are sweet or high in fat, refuse what they don’t like, and their eating is affected by their environment, their moods, and boredom. With all these obstacles, it seems impossible to make sure your bird is eating a healthy and well-balanced diet. But just as with children, there are ways to overcome these problems.One of the best ways to do this is to make sure your bird gets lots of variety. Feeding the same thing everyday can cause boredom and initiate bad eating habits but by adding a creative flair to mealtime, a balance between fun and necessity can be reached. To get a bird to eat something it wouldn’t normally touch, try placing it in clips in different parts of the cage. For example, a budgie that would never eat broccoli in its dish can be enticed to try it and even enjoy it when hung upside down from its perch. Also, for birds that will usually only stick to one type of food, like seeds, try burying them under a mix of other healthy foods. By having to move them out of the way to get to the bottom, they will get used to these new feeds and, sooner or later, come to enjoy them. Another way birds will be enticed to try something new is to see their owners eating the same thing. Especially in larger species, if you eat a piece of a normally untouched vegetable or fruit, your bird will try it, too, and soon come to like it. The first thing to keep remember when choosing food for your bird is that different species have different requirements. For example, cockatiels eat a lot of seeds in the wild but if you try to feed your fruit-loving Amazon the same thing, he might get a little disgruntled. The best thing to do is to look at what your bird normally eats in the wild and then go from there. When considering feeding primarily seed mixes, keep several things in mind. While seeds are a good diet for small birds like budgies and cockatiels, they should be fed sparingly, if at all, to larger birds. Also, while seeds keep birds occupied for a longer period of time than pellets, many of them lack balanced nutrition, especially those based on a just a few types of seeds. Even though most seed mixes have enough variety to give complete nutrition, birds often sort through them to eat what they wantFor larger birds, and even smaller ones who tend to sort, the best thing to feed is pellets. The advantage of these formulated foods is that they are designed so that each individual piece is nutritionally balanced. These mixes are made up of many shapes, sizes, and colors and some even come with different flavors, preventing your bird from becoming bored and ensuring proper nutrition. There are even specialized formulas geared to the specific needs of your bird, such as reduced fat or calories or for special medical conditions like kidney, liver, or intestinal problems. Supplements are a must for every caged bird since they can’t get the same variety of nutrients in captivity that they would in the wild. A good supplement should provide vitamins and minerals but also amino acids because birds don’t digest proteins very well and need an alternate amino acid source. Bee pollen and spirulina are some other ingredients that supplements can include, improving health and feather condition. But make sure you follow the manufacturer’s directions on any supplements given to your bird to prevent accidental overdose.

Finally, don’t forget to reward your bird on special occasions with treats, such as treat sticks and mixes or peanut butter on toast. These can be used to reward positive behavior or break bad habits and help boost the bond between owner and pet. And remember to never give your bird avocado or chocolate, as these foods are poisonous, and to steer clear of dairy products. Hopefully, keeping these things in mind will keep both you and your bird happy and healthy.

Hunting for Answers: The Wisconsin Feral Cat Controversy

by Courtney Atherton

Throughout the month of April, national news carriers reported of a question put to vote at the Wisconsin Conservation Congress that would classify free roaming feral cats as an unprotected species.. By a vote of 6,830 to 5,201, members of the WCC approved of the proposal to be submitted to the Wisconsin state legislature which would permit Wisconsin residents to eliminate, or destroy, any cat they perceive to be feral and a threat to their property.

But not all of Wisconsin residents approved of the measure. Estimates of the number of feral cats ranged widely from a few hundred thousand to 2 million living within the state of Wisconsin. Some organizational members of the WCC have quoted studies that report millions of song birds and other small mammals have been hunted and killed by the free roaming feral cats, making the feral cats a major threat to the small animal and bird populations within the state. However several animal rights groups and conservation organizations have questioned the scientific information used to generate the estimates, reporting that it might not be scientifically valid. According to several news stories, carried by such news giants as ABC, NBC, and CNN, the information used to calculate the estimated loss of small mammals and song birds was partly based on a study of cat predation conducted by Dr. Stanley Temple, a wildlife ecology professor at the University of Wisconsin. Animal rights groups, led by the Wisconsin based organization Don’t Shoot The Cat, maintain that while feral cats do hunt small mammals and song birds, the study conducted by Dr. Temple, (and frequently quoted by anti-feral cat organizations, such as The American Bird Conservancy), has been analyzed carefully and found to be based on dubious scientific methods and inappropriate extrapolation. But what does all of this mean? Plenty, if you own cats and live in Wisconsin. The proposal, which must meet approval by the Wisconsin state legislature and receive the governor’s signature, would permit anyone with a hunting license to capture and/or kill any cats perceived to be free-roaming feral cats. This would require all cat owners to take measures to protect their cats by making sure the cats have visible signs that they are pets. Conservation groups in favor of the proposal suggest that pet cats be kept indoors, have collars, or be registered within the town or city where they reside. But animal rights groups opposing the measure accurately point out that cats can escape homes frequently, have been known to slip out of collars, and that a licensed hunter taking aim at a cat would not necessarily take the time to call for a list of registered cats (or have the equipment to scan the cat for a computerized chip inserted into the cat’s body). This proposal would also provide an additional complication for the multitude of farms and dairy facilities around the state that routinely use outdoor cats for rodent control on a farm. While the public and the media around the world speculate, the citizens of Wisconsin must wrestle with the implications of the measure. Proponents of the proposal frequently remind others that similar laws have been in effect for many years in Minnesota and South Dakota, which has not caused as much of a firestorm as this issue in Wisconsin has developed. As noted on their website, dontshootthecat.com, opponents of the Feral Cat Question 62 believe that additional research into the situation is essential to obtain a balanced, and accurate, portrayal of the feral cat population within the state. Suggestions have been make to increase funding into existing programs, such as trap, spay and release, or regulations of cat colonies, to try to prevent the situation from escalating. But as opponents of the proposal have been quick to point out, the primary cause of small mammal and song birds population decreases have not been the feral cats, but have, in fact, been a result of the encroachment of humans into wildlife territory.

Supporters of Don’t Shoot The Cat indicated that they intend to keep the public aware of updated information about this subject. For the latest in news releases, public opinion, and updates from those conservation organizations encouraging Question 62, log on to www.dontshootthecat.com.. If you wish to contribute to efforts to prevent this proposal from passing the state legislature, please send contributions to WisconsinCat, Don’t Shoot The Cat Campaign, PO Box 2376, Madison, WI 53701-2376, with checks made payable to WisconsinCat.

(Information obtained through news releases and information provided by www.dontshootthecat.com. Information compiled by Courtney Atherton)

Handle with Care!
Socializing Your Pet Birds
by Elizabeth Anderson; Bird Editor at Large

Birds are entertaining and affectionate pets. It’s hard to believe there are some that don’t get much handling. Unfortunately, beautiful feathers may be the cause. There are people who see caged birds as ornamental, something to decorate the home. These neglected birds sit in their cages looking pretty and don’t get to interact with their families. What a waste!
I rescued two Cockatiels who were so starved for affection and attention that they had been given up as "bad tempered" and were considered "biters." They did not trust people and had no social skills when I met them. They were afraid of my hands. They panicked whenever I fed them or cleaned the cage, and there was no way to pick them up or play with them at first. I knew they were lonely and scared, and I knew that to save these birds as pets I would have to be patient and creative.
First of all, I gave them a quiet safe place; their own consistent environment. After living in multiple homes and then the SPCA with constant commotion and barking dogs, noises sent them flying against the cage bars in a frenzy. I gave them a haven in a spare room with soft natural daylight and a nightlight at night. I gave them a big cage with perches that fit their feet, interesting toys, and clean water. I gave them cuttlebones and a balanced diet so they would feel healthy. A big change from poopy water and old birdseed.
Next, I opened the cage door. The door to their quiet room was closed, and I would sit quietly on the floor and read while they skulked in their doorway checking me out. They weren’t going anywhere on their own, and I wasn’t going to make them. I was letting them get used to me. They eventually decided I wasn’t so scary and tried to venture out. Dodger fluttered to the floor one day, and Dulcie followed, which brought us to our next challenge. Badly clipped wings kept them from flying, but they would not let me lift them back into the cage when the time came.
I got one of my wire shelving units off the wall and leaned it from the floor to the cage door like a ramp, or a ladder. They eyed me suspiciously until I crossed the room and sat down with my book, pretending to ignore them. Then they marched right back into their cage. They loved it! They could now come and go from cage to room whenever they pleased, and I never had to try to catch them in my hands.
Of course this freedom made them bold. They were especially attracted to me if I offered them treats like popcorn (no butter or salt for birds, though). They would dart in to grab a piece, then run out of arm’s reach to eat it. After a week of these shenanigans they were bored by me and realized I posed no threat. They would walk across my lap, jump into the popcorn bowl, and have a ball. It wasn’t a stretch from that to just sitting on me, and from then on things got easier.
The birds would come right over to me when I came in, and they would nibble my earrings or nip my fingers until I patted them. They would cock their heads sideways to have their cheeks rubbed or raise a wing for a side tickle. When their wings got fuller they would fly over and land on me, but birds with clipped wings will step up onto a finger to come out and play. They had adopted me as part of their flock, and it was wonderful.
So my Cockatiels became lovely pets, with good manners and great behavior. Instead of flapping, shrieking, biting, they were gentle. They needed patience and kindness. They needed someone to give them some space and meet their needs. Like any abused or neglected creatures, they needed to feel safe and make the first move when they felt ready. I handled them with kindness and gave them lots of loving attention. And they soon became happy, normal pet birds.

Whisper When You Want to Shout
by Gail Fisher

Every once in a while a dog will escape from an owner in our parking lot. Sometimes a leash breaks, or the dog slips his collar, or, as the following email from a former student of ours wrote, the dog jumps out of the car. Here’s her email:
Dear Gail, I wanted to write to you to thank you for something that you taught me more than 15 years ago when I was training my dog in your classes. I recently used the technique with my nine month old Bernese Mountain Dog and it likely saved him from a tragic accident.
I had to take my two dogs – the pup and a four year old Berner – to our vet, whose office is just off busy Route 101. When I opened the door to put a leash on the dog, both dogs pushed their way out of the car and were racing around the parking lot with no collars and no leashes. I was in a panic as I tried in vain to get close enough to the puppy to grab him. He is nearly 100 lbs. and full of energy like any puppy. He has had some training, but is not enough to come when called off leash if he has better thing to do!
Then I remembered something you taught us in one of your classes. You said to kneel down with your head close to the ground and pretend to whisper to the ground. It would pique the dog's curiosity and they would come to see what was so interesting. Well, I did it and it WORKED!! I was able to catch the pup and get him back to the safety of the car. My older dog was fine.
I am so thankful for that little tidbit that very likely may have saved my precious dog that day. Sincerely.

Hearing that something I taught her 15 years ago may have saved a dog’s life gives me a wonderful feeling. When a dog has escaped either at home or away, our automatic reaction is to run after the dog to try to catch him. Unfortunately, this natural reaction is the worst thing you can do. The problem is that when you run after your dog, he runs even faster away from you – turning it into a fun (for him) game of chase me. It isn’t that the dog is being bad; it’s the dog’s natural reaction. He doesn’t think of it as you trying to catch him, he thinks of it as you running in the same direction as he is, and he leads the way. So if your dog is running toward a busy road, as my former student’s dog was, the end result could be tragic.
The technique the reader refers to is one that I call "Grass Talk." Just as described, you get down low, and talk in an animated and conspiratorial manner with the ground – snow covered, grassy, mud or pavement – it doesn’t matter. You can even touch the ground as if you’ve found a wonderful treasure. Dogs are naturally curious, and seeing you in intimate conversation with the ground, your dog will come close to see what’s so interesting. When your dog is within reach, you can capture him.
There’s one other technique that works in a situation like this – one I call "Screaming Banshee". With the Screaming Banshee technique you get your dog’s attention and then run away from the direction your dog is headed – leading your dog toward safety. Although it seems counter-intuitive to run away from your dog, this will work nearly 100% of the time. To utilize this approach, get your dog’s attention by screaming as loudly as you can, raise your arms over your head and flail them around as you utter a high-pitched, loud "Kiyii-yiiiii-yiiii!". Dogs love a good chase – and they’d just as soon be the chaser as the "chasee." Plus, this uncharacteristic and bizarre behavior on your part – the more bizarre, the better – is likely to get your dog to follow you, if for no other reason than you’re being really weird. When you’ve run a safe distance from the danger, stop, crouch down and greet your dog happily.
Whenever you catch your dog, be sure to praise the heck out of him. Don’t ever punish your dog for coming when called. I know you’re thinking, "I didn’t call him. I got him to chase me." But the bottom line from your dog’s perspective is that he came close to you and allowed himself to be caught. If you punish him, or react angrily such as by taking him roughly by the scruff of the neck, he won’t be so quick to respond next time you call, or will learn to play keep-away. You always want to reward your dog for any approach to you – you’re your dog’s safe haven.
And finally, do not overuse these techniques, or you’ll lose them for when you really need a fail safe plan to prevent disaster. Save both Grass Talk and Screaming Banshee – as my former student did – for an emergency. Then, having averted disaster, make the effort to train your dog to come when called no matter what.

Gail Fisher runs All Dogs Gym & Inn® near Manchester Airport. You'll find past columns on her website. If you would like a topic addressed in this column, email gail@alldogsgym.com or write c/o All Dogs Gym & Inn, 505 Sheffield Rd., Manchester, NH 03103. Phone (603) 669-4644. Or visit her website www.alldogsgym.com.